How to Dress Like a

Suit

The Cut

Liberty

American Cut

  • Loose cut classic
  • Straight lines
  • Higher arm hole and natural shoulders
  • Flap pockets
  • Single vent in jacket
British

British Cut

  • Slim cut classic
  • Structured jacket and tapered waist
  • Heavier cloth and stiffer chest canvas
  • Narrow, defined shoulders with thicker pads
  • Two side vents in jacket
Italian

Italian Cut

  • Slim cut sleek silhouette
  • Lighter cloths and less overall padding
  • Pants have tapered waist and hips snug to body
  • Shorter, tighter jackets with two vents
  • Flapless pockets

The Fit

  • Sleeves

    Your sleeves should end at your wrist bone, leaving ¼ - ½ inch of your shirt sleeve to show.

  • Jacket Length

    For traditional jacket length, place your hand down and the root of your thumb should be aligned with the end of the jacket.

  • Trouser Waist

    Comfortable but not too tight. Wear pleated pants on your waist and flat front pants on the hips.

  • Length of Trousers– The Lingo

    Full Break = Bottom of pants touches almost bottom of heel

    Half Break = Bottom of pants cover first two rows of laces and first third of shoe heel

    Quarter Break = Bottom of pants cover first lace row and touch first third of shoe heel

    No Break = Bottom of pants just touches top of the shoes

    Modern suits favour the quarter break and no break – but don't forget your dress socks

  • Shoulders

    Pay special attention to the shoulders – they are the biggest giveaway. The shoulder of the jacket has to follow the end of your shoulders. If it's pulling over your shoulders, then it's too small. If there’s a gap between the end of your shoulder and the jacket’s shoulder seam, then it’s too big.

  • Tailor Time

    If you can't afford a bespoke tailored suit, buy a good quality one off the rack and get it altered – it will be a fraction of the cost, will fit like a glove, and you can count yourself as a man who has a personal tailor...

Waistcoat

Waistcoat

RULE #1:

Fit is King. No excess material, it makes you look bigger than you are. Think streamlined and tidy - high armholes, snug fit on shoulders and torso.

RULE #2:

Button Up. A waistcoat is meant to make you look put together, so why have it any other way? Buttons up, gents – but leave the bottom button undone.

RULE #3:

Try not to look like a waiter. Go for seasonal fabrics like tweed in winter or cotton in summer and avoid tragic, shiny polyester. Keep it simple – no unnecessary details. And avoid wearing with black trousers.

Shirt

Shirt

  • Buying a shirt in S, M or L is never going to fit as well. Know your measurements.

  • Lose excess material – keep it slim.

  • Make sure you can comfortably fit one finger between the collar and your neck – if you can fit two, the collar’s too big.

  • An Oxford Shirt is a classic. Invest – it will never go out of style.

  • If the reception is more casual, learn how to roll your sleeves properly – neat and tidy yet relaxed.

  • Keep it neutral - simplicity is style. (I also changed the order of these)

  • Tuck it in for goodness sake.

Tie

  • The tip of your tie should skim your belt line.

  • Keep it slim, gents. Wide ties will make you look like a 1990s estate agent.

  • Learn at least 3 different knots for different occasions. The Simple, The Windsor and the Cross Knot are a good place to start.

  • Simplicity is cool – novelty ties are for drunk uncles and music teachers.

  • Nothing looks cooler than a slightly loosened tie.

  • Learn how to tie a bow tie. It’s the mark of a gentleman - clip-ons are for children.

Belt & Braces

Belt & Braces
  • Braces are a trendy vintage look and add old-fashioned sophistication

  • Belts are more traditional, but always be sure to coordinate with your shoes

Shoes

Shoe
  • Always match your shoes to your suit.
  • Black shoes.
  • Brown shoes.
  • You decide
  • Converse with a suit is a cool look, but be sure it’s the right occasion to be this bold

The Details

  • Your pocket square should complement your tie - but not match it in pattern or fabric.

  • Keep cufflinks simple and understated

  • Brightly coloured laces add personality, but coordinate with the outfit’s colour palate

  • If you buy off the rack, do not forget to unstitch your vents

  • Converse with a suit is a cool look, but be sure it’s the right occasion to be this bold

  • Go for ‘the wealthy tan’ as if you’ve been holidaying in Cannes – it’ll make your suit look more expensive

  • A handsome watch says a lot about a man

  • Socks should be long enough that no bare leg would ever be seen when crossing your legs

  • And invest in gentlemen’s socks. Go for a subtle pattern. No black sports socks. Women notice stuff like this...

Shirt

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